How to Install Your 70mai Dashcam — Complete Guide (DIY + Professional)
You just bought a 70mai. Now it needs to end up on your windscreen, wired cleanly, with no visible cables. This is the full walkthrough — DIY steps if you want to do it yourself, or what to expect at an authorised 70mai branch if you'd rather have it done properly.
Option 1 — Free Professional Installation at a 70mai Branch
This is what we'd recommend for 90% of buyers. It's free with any purchase from 70mai.my, takes 60–90 minutes, and delivers a factory-finish result.
What happens at the branch:
- You arrive at your appointment time (book via 70mai.my/pages/where-to-install)
- Installer inspects your vehicle — A-pillar removability, fuse box access, mirror type
- Dash cam is mounted behind the rear-view mirror, centred on the windscreen
- Power cable is routed behind the A-pillar trim, across the top of the dash, and either to the cigarette lighter (plug-in install) or the fuse box (hardwire install)
- If you bought a hardwire kit (UP02 or UP03), installer taps into an ACC fuse and a constant-power fuse for parking mode
- Rear camera (if applicable) is mounted on the rear windscreen and cable routed along the roof lining
- 70mai app paired to your phone, settings configured, WiFi connection tested
- Walkthrough of basic controls
What it costs: RM 0 for basic install with any dash cam purchased from 70mai.my. Hardwire install may incur a small fee (RM 30–50) depending on vehicle complexity.
Option 2 — DIY Installation
Doable with basic tools. Takes 45–90 minutes depending on whether you're hardwiring.
What you'll need:
- Your 70mai dash cam and included cables
- Plastic trim removal tools (RM 15 set on Shopee)
- Cable routing hook or long thin screwdriver
- Microfibre cloth and isopropyl alcohol (to clean the windscreen mounting area)
- Hardwire kit (UP02 or UP03) if you want parking mode
- Multimeter if hardwiring (to identify ACC and constant-power fuses)
Step-by-step for a basic plug-in install:
- Clean the mounting area. Wipe the windscreen where you'll mount the dash cam with isopropyl alcohol. Let it dry fully. Skipping this step means the mount falls off in a week.
- Mount the dash cam behind the rear-view mirror. Centre it on the windscreen so it doesn't obstruct your view from the driver's seat. The 70mai mount uses 3M adhesive — press firmly for 60 seconds.
- Plan your cable route. The cable goes: dash cam → across the top of the windscreen → down the passenger-side A-pillar → across the top of the passenger footwell → to the cigarette lighter/USB port.
- Tuck the cable behind the headliner. Use the trim tool to gently pull the top edge of the windscreen trim away. Push the cable behind it. Repeat across to the A-pillar.
- Open the A-pillar trim carefully. Most A-pillars pop off with a firm pull, but some have clips that break easily. If your car has curtain airbags (check your manual), do NOT route the cable through the A-pillar — you can disable the airbag. Run the cable along the outside edge of the trim instead.
- Route down to the cigarette lighter. Tuck the cable behind the kick panel or along the door weatherstrip.
- Plug in and test. The dash cam should power on automatically when you start the car.
If you're installing a rear camera:
Add another 30–45 minutes. The rear camera cable runs: front dash cam → along the driver-side A-pillar → across the roof lining → down the rear D-pillar → to the rear camera mounted high on the rear windscreen.
The roof lining is the tricky part. Don't pull it down — gently push the cable up into the gap between the lining and the metal roof, using the trim tool to guide it across. Work in 30cm sections.
Hardwire Installation (for Parking Mode)
Hardwire kits like the 70mai UP02 and UP03 have three wires: yellow (constant +12V), red (ACC +12V), and black (ground). They connect to your car's fuse box.
The risk: Tapping the wrong fuse can disable essential vehicle functions. If you've never worked with a car fuse box before, this is the step to leave to a professional. A RM 50 install fee is cheaper than replacing a fuse panel.
If you're confident:
- Locate your fuse box (usually driver-side footwell or under the bonnet)
- Use a multimeter to identify: a fuse that has power when ignition is on (ACC), a fuse that has power always (constant), and a bare metal ground point
- Use add-a-fuse adapters (not wire taps) to connect yellow to constant, red to ACC
- Ground the black wire to a clean metal point
- Route the kit's output cable up to the dash cam the same way you'd route the plug-in cable
Common DIY Mistakes
- Mounting the dash cam in the driver's line of sight. Keep it behind the rear-view mirror. Beyond visibility, it's an RTD offence to mount a dash cam where it obstructs driving view.
- Skipping windscreen cleaning. Adhesion fails within days if the surface has oil film.
- Forcing the A-pillar trim. If it resists, stop — you may be about to break a clip or disconnect an airbag sensor.
- Routing cable through an airbag path. Check your owner's manual. Curtain airbags deploy along the headliner edge; cable there can become a projectile.
- Grounding the hardwire kit to a painted surface. Paint is an insulator. Find bare metal.
Which Route Should You Take?
If you're mechanically confident, have done cable routing before, and your car doesn't have complex airbag systems near the A-pillar, DIY is fine. For everyone else, book a free install at a 70mai branch.